Welcome to the explorer series! Each article will take a deep-dive into a wine region, helping you build your wine knowledge and get inspired to try new things.
Today’s installation will cover the Coastal Region of the Western Cape of South Africa, an innovative and incredibly exciting up-and-coming region for wine production. The Coastal Region comprises four districts: Constantia, Franschhoek Valley, Paarl, and Stellenbosch, and produces a wide array of varietals, from Colombard to Merlot. Today, we’re focusing on one blend, and two single-varietal wines that I find fascinating and delicious. The quality of South African wine has skyrocketed since 1994 when the African National Congress won the first democratic elections and embargos were lifted, and there are many amazing producers exporting to the US to try today.
The Land
The geology of South Africa is breathtaking, with many mountain ranges, and vines are planted on slopes that seem to disappear right into the ocean. Just as the vineyards of Sonoma Coast are cooled by coastal waters and fogs, the wine farms (South Africans don't use the terms "winery" or "vineyard" but "wine farm") of South Africa benefit from cooling maritime breezes, leading to wines with expressive, ripe fruit character balanced by refreshing acidity. In fact, the strong wind that helps amplify the cooling effect of cold ocean currents is called the “Cape Doctor”, since adequate airflow in the canopy helps prevent many vine diseases.
The Wines
The first wine to get to know is Chenin Blanc – outside of the Loire, South Africa produces some of the best Chenin in the world. This is a semi-aromatic, high-acid white grape that makes wines at a variety of sweetness levels, both still and sparkling. It is declining in plantings, as domestically, many South African winemakers associate this vigorous variety with the quantity-over-quality focused wines made there historically. However, a few producers are sticking by the varietal and focusing on exceptional, high-quality winemaking techniques that bring out the best in this delicate varietal. My favorite South African Chenins have gorgeous notes of yellow apple and tart lemon, with floral notes of citrus blossoms, all supported by a characteristic beeswax note. The high acidity of this wine makes it wonderfully food-friendly. Try it with your next charcuterie board - I find it pairs well with soft cheeses like brie or goats cheese and a variety of meats.
The next wine to know from the Coastal Region is the Bordeaux-style blend. It’s an act of bravery for any winemaker to approach a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot blend, given so many around the world do it well, but over eight generations, the Meerlust Estate has perfected their version. Here, the warm climate gives Merlot the full-bodied, plummy character hard to achieve in Bordeaux, and the Cabernet Sauvignon is at its best, contributing notes of cassis and violet to the blend. This style of wine pairs well with heartier red-meat dishes or stews. If you’re feeling adventurous, pair it with Bredie, a South African stew reflective of the Malay cultural influence on the country’s food.
Meerlust Rubicon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2020
The final wine to love from South Africa: Pinotage. If you made a face, don’t! Pinotage is no longer an unpleasantly rustic wine – Coastal Region winemakers today are making refined and elegant wines from this odd grape. It’s a crossing between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (a crossing is when the two parent vines are from the same species, if the parent vines are different species, the offspring is called a hybrid), and produces a full-bodied wine with medium-high tannins and acidity. If you’re into Mourvèdre, I’d highly recommend a Kanonkop Pinotage; their middle-range Estate is savory and expressive, with notes of smoke, earth, leather, and bramble and their Black Label is exceptional, with notes of blackberry, plum sauce, fig, and roasted meat. Pinotage is an excellent pairing partner for a variety of meaty dishes, but the earthy tones in the wine tend to pair well with earthy notes in your food, so keep this one in mind next time you enjoy a mushroom-based dish.
There’s so much more to know about South African wines, from Cap Classique to Vin de Constance, so I hope this is just the beginning of your exploration into the region. In the same way that in America we have "happy hour" and in Italy they have "aperitivo", South Africans have drink specials at sunset, called "sundowners". So, try a Bordeaux-style blend, a Chenin Blanc, or a Pinotage for your next sundowner!
